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Just brought my first rifle home.

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#21
the shooting requirements arent tough at all. you take a printed PDF file from CMP to your range and have them watch you and fill out the sheet. its like do you follow range rules, do you know how to clean the weapon, can you safely fire XX amount of rounds, can you take it apart. stuff like that. its better to get a rack grade and rebarrel it to either .30-.06 or in .308(ammo is more available). have your dad join the club and CMP. and a C&R is wasted money (you could buy more firearms with it). one of the req. for CMP is a military history so that my help you.
 
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#23
i'm not sure if they'll take it, i didnt read that far cause it didnt pertain to me:p

here is the full list of requirements:
Current or past military service.
Current or past law enforcement service
Participation in a rifle, pistol, air gun or shotgun competition (provide copy of results bulletin).
Completion of a marksmanship clinic that included live fire training (provide a copy of the certificate of completion or a statement from the instructor).
Distinguished, Instructor, or Coach status.
Concealed Carry License.
Firearms Owner Identification Cards that included live fire training.
FFL or C&R license.
Completion of a Hunter Safety Course that included live fire training.
Certification from range or club official or law enforcement officer witnessing shooting activity. A form for use in completing and certifying your range firing can be downloaded from the CMP web site at http://www.odcmp.com/forms/marksmanship.pdf
No proof of marksmanship required if over age 60. proof of club membership and citizenship required for all ages.
 
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#25
The Garand I had was a CMP Garand. Beautiful 1939 Springfield Armory receiver, rebarelled with a new SA barrel in 1951. Sat in the Red River Army Depot until 1966, when it was packed for shipment overseas (Vietnam). Never got sent, so it stayed in a dry-pack shipping sleeve until it was sent to me in 1984. It included a sling, muzzle cover, cleaning kit and sight protector. No bayonet, but I found a good one for it not too much later. VERY accurate rifle, capable of shooting groups less than 1" at 100 yards.
 
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#26
[CoFR]BooBoo said:
The Garand I had was a CMP Garand. Beautiful 1939 Springfield Armory receiver, rebarelled with a new SA barrel in 1951. Sat in the Red River Army Depot until 1966, when it was packed for shipment overseas (Vietnam). Never got sent, so it stayed in a dry-pack shipping sleeve until it was sent to me in 1984. It included a sling, muzzle cover, cleaning kit and sight protector. No bayonet, but I found a good one for it not too much later. VERY accurate rifle, capable of shooting groups less than 1" at 100 yards.
Click to expand...

Sub-MOA. Cool.

With what kind of ammo?
 
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#27
It liked PMC M2 Ball quite a lot, but I shot mostly with handloads. I primarily used it for High Power Service Rifle competition, so built loads around 150gr and 168gr match bullets. It did see its fair share of time in the deer woods as well, and I used a 150gr SPBT for hunting loads.

Point of info when choosing factory loaded ammo for a Garand...

Keep in mind that modern hunting ammo is loaded with powders that aren't necessarily compatible with the Garand's action. The gas port on the Garand is near the muzzle, and is designed to operate within certain pressure tolerances. Military ball (US Cartridge, Cal. .30, M2) is loaded with powders consistent with the pressure curve required to produce the right port pressure.

Hunting ammo, on the other hand, is designed to give the best average performance with many different brands and types of hunting rifles. The powders they use are slower burning and can create gas pressures at the gas port of a Garand that can cause severe damage to the rifle. I have seen Garands that were used with off-the-shelf ammo that was never intended for it that had badly eroded gas ports, damaged gas cylinders and operating rods, and worse. Excessive port pressure can cause the action to cycle far too energetically, causing mechanical damage to the bolt and even the receiver.

Just a word of caution.
 
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#34
Anyone know how I can make SKS stripper clips strip more easily? It doesn't strip smoothly like videos I've seen and I need to pause in the middle so I can exert more force to load the rounds. I've got some WD40 I could use on the clips... But I've been loading and stripping all 20 of my stripper clips. My room now smells like ammunition too.
 
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#36
The Soup Nazi said:
Anyone know how I can make SKS stripper clips strip more easily? It doesn't strip smoothly like videos I've seen and I need to pause in the middle so I can exert more force to load the rounds. I've got some WD40 I could use on the clips... But I've been loading and stripping all 20 of my stripper clips. My room now smells like ammunition too.
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Well, I've just plopped strippers into solvent (I have the red Shooters Choice stuff) for a few days before.

Pull 'em out, and the usual goop and whatnot is usually gone. From there, you can try to deburr with high grit sandpaper and maybe polish stuff with a Dremel, but my experience is that if the stripper's still crunchy after being degooped, it's probably not going to get any better.
 
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#39
The Soup Nazi said:
Anyone know how I can make SKS stripper clips strip more easily? It doesn't strip smoothly like videos I've seen and I need to pause in the middle so I can exert more force to load the rounds. I've got some WD40 I could use on the clips... But I've been loading and stripping all 20 of my stripper clips. My room now smells like ammunition too.
Click to expand...
First, try sliding just 1 round up and down the clip. Make sure the round can move along the clip smoothly. Sometimes clips will have burrs or rough edges that you might want to touch up with a file.

Put the rifle on your lap, looking into the magazine, with the barrel facing left. Ok, now put 10 rounds on the clip and insert the clip into the rifle. With your right thumb, push the back of the clip FORWARD toward the barrel of the rifle. While doing so, take your left thumb and put pressure on the top round as close to the BACK of the cartridge as possible. You might need to wiggle the top round a little bit using your fingers to lift the tip of the round up and down while you are still pressing down with your left thumb.

It takes practice to do it quickly. You'll get it eventually.

Btw make sure you dry off those clips. You don't want anything to soak into the rounds and you don't want to rust the clips either.
 
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