Comparison article: AK vs AR.. vs Mosin. Funny!
- Thread starter {YBBS}Sage
- Start date
HAHAHAHAHAHA LOL!!!!! HAHAHAA you dig amo out of a farm in Ukraine and it works just fine..exe of a joke with it
Your rifle's accessory is a small tin can with a funny lid, but its buried under an apartment building somewhere in Budapest
Your rifle's accessory is a small tin can with a funny lid, but its buried under an apartment building somewhere in Budapest
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You paid $59.95
Your sight adjustment goes to 12 miles and you've actually tried it
Mosin FTW!
Your sight adjustment goes to 12 miles and you've actually tried it
Mosin FTW!
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Heh, this link has been known in the RO community for a long long time.
And just as a more personal note. As an owner of all three of these fine weapons, many of these statements ring true
AK | AR | Mosin
Recoil is manageable, even fun | What's recoil?| Recoil often used to relocate shoulders thrown out by the previous shot.
Ahhh how true.
And just as a more personal note. As an owner of all three of these fine weapons, many of these statements ring true
AK | AR | Mosin
Recoil is manageable, even fun | What's recoil?| Recoil often used to relocate shoulders thrown out by the previous shot.
Ahhh how true.
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Heh, I think my friend sent me the link because of the "Sovcom" Mosin at the bottom: I'm planning on taking mine to a tactical rifle shoot next Sunday. Should be fun!
Also, I think, because I discovered that this is true:
It was last cleaned in Berlin in 1945
I finally ran some copper solvent through the barrel, I noticed I had patches coming out kind of green, and some stuff I couldn't QUITE get rid of fouling the barrel....
3 hours later, the copper solvent patches quit coming out green, so I switch to regular solvent... and those patches start coming out black!! It's like archaeology. There are layers in there.
Also, I think, because I discovered that this is true:
It was last cleaned in Berlin in 1945
I finally ran some copper solvent through the barrel, I noticed I had patches coming out kind of green, and some stuff I couldn't QUITE get rid of fouling the barrel....
3 hours later, the copper solvent patches quit coming out green, so I switch to regular solvent... and those patches start coming out black!! It's like archaeology. There are layers in there.
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LOL
I can't wait to get down to business with my Mosin
*gets a box of rags and a comfy chair next to the radio*
I can't wait to get down to business with my Mosin
*gets a box of rags and a comfy chair next to the radio*
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Sage:
Once you get the patches coming out clean, try this - bronze brush, correct or oversized! Hit it with the brush a few times, apply MORE patches, and realize that you've just begun to fight.
By the way, I've been told that windex works great for cleaning the fouling out of these older rifles. Tried it on my turk mauser as a cheap test, and it seems to work. The ammonia apparently goes to work on some of the corrosive crap and cleans it up pretty well. Just be sure you hit the barrel with a proper oil patch after windexing it, or you might be pulling rusty patches out the next time you clean it.
Once you get the patches coming out clean, try this - bronze brush, correct or oversized! Hit it with the brush a few times, apply MORE patches, and realize that you've just begun to fight.
By the way, I've been told that windex works great for cleaning the fouling out of these older rifles. Tried it on my turk mauser as a cheap test, and it seems to work. The ammonia apparently goes to work on some of the corrosive crap and cleans it up pretty well. Just be sure you hit the barrel with a proper oil patch after windexing it, or you might be pulling rusty patches out the next time you clean it.
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The way I understand it, the ammonia neutralizes the corrosive salts from the berdan primers used in milsurp ammo... Though with 54R, pretty much everything is going to be at least mildly corrosive.
I actually bought some copper solvent called Sweet's 7.62 on the reccomendation of a milsurp shooter/collecter friend of mine. Don't use it with a bronze brush, though. The Sweet's does include ammonia, but afterwords, I'm running Hoppes solvent through the barrel since that stuff is also corrosion inhibitor, and I don't feel comfortable leaving stuff that eats copper in my barrel for very long.
Since I think I revealed barrel that hasn't seen air in 60 or so years, I dried all the solvent out of my barrel and gave it a good coat of Rem Oil. I figured a bit of Teflon couldn't hurt, and some oil might help break up what's in the barrel. I'll be hitting the cleaning supplies again this weekend, but I'll need a new cleaning kit, since the Mosin's issue kit didn't come with a brush (only part I didn't get) and I broke my Hoppes cleaning rod pushing a patch through the barrel (it came partway unscrewed) so I finished cleaning with the issue kit.
I'll get her clean, probably this weekend. After I cash my paycheck today, I'm stopping and getting a new Hoppes cleaning rod, and I'll look for a bronze brush (I have a brush, but it's nylon, talk about worthless.)
Oh, and patches. Must not forget patches. I actually ran out and wound up saving a couple for the final swab-out, and used chunks of paper towel for much of the cleaning.
I actually bought some copper solvent called Sweet's 7.62 on the reccomendation of a milsurp shooter/collecter friend of mine. Don't use it with a bronze brush, though.
The Sweet's does include ammonia, but afterwords, I'm running Hoppes solvent through the barrel since that stuff is also corrosion inhibitor, and I don't feel comfortable leaving stuff that eats copper in my barrel for very long. Since I think I revealed barrel that hasn't seen air in 60 or so years, I dried all the solvent out of my barrel and gave it a good coat of Rem Oil. I figured a bit of Teflon couldn't hurt, and some oil might help break up what's in the barrel. I'll be hitting the cleaning supplies again this weekend, but I'll need a new cleaning kit, since the Mosin's issue kit didn't come with a brush (only part I didn't get) and I broke my Hoppes cleaning rod pushing a patch through the barrel (it came partway unscrewed) so I finished cleaning with the issue kit.
I'll get her clean, probably this weekend. After I cash my paycheck today, I'm stopping and getting a new Hoppes cleaning rod, and I'll look for a bronze brush (I have a brush, but it's nylon, talk about worthless.)
Oh, and patches. Must not forget patches. I actually ran out and wound up saving a couple for the final swab-out, and used chunks of paper towel for much of the cleaning.
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lols!
I have had good results using that CLP all in one cleaner, and a boresnake. Though all my rifles are 'Merican.
My cousin was a tanker and he says that he used CLP on everything from the .50 BMG/Ma Duce to his Berreta 9mm. The cool thing about it is the solvent evaporates away and leaves the oil behind, so if some runs into a crevase that you cant swab, there will be no corrosion. The downside, you better were those blue latex gloves because I allways feel high and sick too my stomach after my skin is exposed. Works way better than Hoppe's solvents.
I have had good results using that CLP all in one cleaner, and a boresnake. Though all my rifles are 'Merican.
My cousin was a tanker and he says that he used CLP on everything from the .50 BMG/Ma Duce to his Berreta 9mm. The cool thing about it is the solvent evaporates away and leaves the oil behind, so if some runs into a crevase that you cant swab, there will be no corrosion. The downside, you better were those blue latex gloves because I allways feel high and sick too my stomach after my skin is exposed.
Works way better than Hoppe's solvents.
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Another vote for Breakfree. I used to use hoppes #9, but I bought my last bottle of that stuff about 2 years ago when I started buying breakfree instead. Easy to use, you can use it for everything, and its in a handy spray can instead of the screw top jars that they sell the hoppes in.
As for patches, if you run out, cut up an old shirt and use those. Trying to clean a barrel with paper towel patches is frustrating - you'll just poke your jag through the paper, and you leave little bits of paper in the barrel.
As for patches, if you run out, cut up an old shirt and use those. Trying to clean a barrel with paper towel patches is frustrating - you'll just poke your jag through the paper, and you leave little bits of paper in the barrel.
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I've always used Shooter's Choice MC #7 for cleaning my rifles of non-corrosive fouling. The corrosive stuff gets a dose of water-based solvent, be it Windex, 409, or regular hot soapy water. Whichever I use I make sure the barrel gets well wetted down with it, followed by a nylon brush scrub and patch cleaning. That's followed by regular solvent (SC) and a bronze brush pass or two, until the last patch comes out spotless. A patch of Breakfree CLP and a good external wipedown and she's good to go.
Anybody else smell CLP in the air?
Anybody else smell CLP in the air?
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LOL!!!
AK-You can put a .30" hole through 12" of oak, if you can hit it
AR-You can put one hole in a paper target at 100m with 30 rounds
MN-You can knock down everyone else's target just from the shock wave of your bullet going downrange
so true!
AK-You can put a .30" hole through 12" of oak, if you can hit it
AR-You can put one hole in a paper target at 100m with 30 rounds
MN-You can knock down everyone else's target just from the shock wave of your bullet going downrange
so true!
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Hmm, I'll have to get some CLP, I guess. I'm getting loads of crap out now with a nylon brush and Sweet's, but it seems to be taking a long time... though to be fair, there WAS a lot of that crap in there.
The 7.62 bottle has a really small hole in the top, so it's easy to drizzle down into the bore if you feel like it (I've taken to doing that.)
I'll just stick to either Sweet's or Hoppes for neutralizing the corrosive stuff, since they both list ammonia as an ingredient, and I've heard that works (soap and water is good for washing it out, though.)
The 7.62 bottle has a really small hole in the top, so it's easy to drizzle down into the bore if you feel like it (I've taken to doing that.)
I'll just stick to either Sweet's or Hoppes for neutralizing the corrosive stuff, since they both list ammonia as an ingredient, and I've heard that works (soap and water is good for washing it out, though.)
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Remember that the corrosive elements are all salts that form when the primer ignites (some powders as well, although most military powders from WWI on are non-corrosive). The best way to neutralize salts is with water, pure and simple. Modern bore cleaners are formulated to clean powder residue and copper fouling, not corrosive salts.
Do yourself a favor and try that nylon brush with some 409 or other water-based cleaner. You might be surprised at just how much of a difference it will make.
(This comes from over 30 years of experience with everything from black powder to the latest modern powders and primers, WWII milsurp ammo to the best premium stuff on the shelf today - the best solvent for corrosive salt fouling is water and elbow grease, bar none)
Do yourself a favor and try that nylon brush with some 409 or other water-based cleaner. You might be surprised at just how much of a difference it will make.
(This comes from over 30 years of experience with everything from black powder to the latest modern powders and primers, WWII milsurp ammo to the best premium stuff on the shelf today - the best solvent for corrosive salt fouling is water and elbow grease, bar none)
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Nah. Best cleaning for corrosive ammo is simply blasting hot water down the barrel with a hose. Just remember to turn the action around so that all parts of the barrel get their share of hot lovin'.
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I love that article.
I was at a gunshow in January, talking with one of the dealers who had a ton of very nice Mosins. We were talking about their uncanny accuracy, and he told me a story:
He had a guy come up to him at another show. The fellow had an AR-15 loaded with thousands of $$$ of god-knows-what accessories - red dot sights, tactical lights, blah blah blah. A plastic $1500 rifle loaded with several times the value of the rifle in gear alone.
The guy looks down his nose at this dirty old Mosins and basically rags on them. They're so old, they're so crusty. Bolt-actions? Come on... Russian-made pieces of **** can't be accurate and can't even be worth buying even at $50 a pop.
So the dealer challenges him, then and there, to a shoot-off.
The next day, they meet at the range - the dealer with a 1930's vintage 91/30 and the other guy with his 21st century AR15. Over the next hour, they fire away at targets 100 yards away. The dealer proceeds to not only annihilate the guy by shooting more consistently and more accurately, but he does it over open sights!
The other guy was livid, having just been completely owned by a rifle worth less than the mounting bracket for one of his sights.
Moral of the story: Respect the Mosin, especially in the right hands.
I was at a gunshow in January, talking with one of the dealers who had a ton of very nice Mosins. We were talking about their uncanny accuracy, and he told me a story:
He had a guy come up to him at another show. The fellow had an AR-15 loaded with thousands of $$$ of god-knows-what accessories - red dot sights, tactical lights, blah blah blah. A plastic $1500 rifle loaded with several times the value of the rifle in gear alone.
The guy looks down his nose at this dirty old Mosins and basically rags on them. They're so old, they're so crusty. Bolt-actions? Come on... Russian-made pieces of **** can't be accurate and can't even be worth buying even at $50 a pop.
So the dealer challenges him, then and there, to a shoot-off.
The next day, they meet at the range - the dealer with a 1930's vintage 91/30 and the other guy with his 21st century AR15. Over the next hour, they fire away at targets 100 yards away. The dealer proceeds to not only annihilate the guy by shooting more consistently and more accurately, but he does it over open sights!
The other guy was livid, having just been completely owned by a rifle worth less than the mounting bracket for one of his sights.
Moral of the story: Respect the Mosin, especially in the right hands.
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