I'll Show You Mine If You'll Show Me Yours (Part Deux)

[Dr. Peter Venkman]

Guess what? "Ivan" won. It was a Soviet rifle far longer than it was German rifle. Whether you like it or not. RC Mausers have this in their history. Stripping the shellac off is stripping away history. This discussion always leads to arguments on every WWII rifle forum I go to.

I don't call my Finn'd Remington M91 a Russian or American rifle. It's a Finnish rifle. The same holds true for the RC Mausers.

I know Ivan won and I don't need a history lesson. RC Mausers do have it in their history and I very well know that; this is designated by the X on the receiver.

Your comparison of a Finn M91 to an RC Mauser is far-fetched at best. The Finns did a lot more than just mix parts together and do some electropenciling like the Russians did. Ivan threw parts together and put a crappy coating on the stock. I don't see anything wrong with restoring a German rifle to it's correct finish prior to Russian refurbishment where they hosed down these Mausers with Shellac, grinded on the receivers to remove waffenamts, and electropenciled parts to match after they mixed them from thousands of other rifles effectively making everything a frankenstein. Yes it's a part of their 'history'considering that it is an event in the rifle's lifetime, but by that line of thinking so is doing a hackjob on it. The history of the rifle is still there when you remove the shellac It's not as if by removing the shellac you are denying that the russkies won or that it was never captured; it just doesn't look like crap anymore when you do.

Venkman, the part that melts when you shoot it is the cosmo preservative. That's not shellac that is melting and the shellac on it has nothing to do with that.

Shellac is an excellent finish that preserves wood very well. Even the Swiss used shellac on their K31s.

If you say so. I feel that Ivan's shellac is rather terrible.

Regardless, lets get back on topic.

 

[engineer]

Shellac is good, but this shellac is cheap, thin and was meant only to preserve the wood. And it does good in that respect.

 

[GonzoX]

The point being that shellac does not melt, as you implied. That is cosmo / grease that is melting out of the wood etc. You are getting shellac confused with oil.

And I thought I was On-Topic. Are we not discussing RC mausers or did I miss something?

 

[Dr. Peter Venkman]

The point being that shellac does not melt, as you implied. That is cosmo / grease that is melting out of the wood etc. You are getting shellac confused with oil.

And I thought I was On-Topic. Are we not discussing RC mausers or did I miss something?

I was under the impression that that was indeed the shellac melting off.

We are discussing RC Mausers indeed, however, debating about what constitutes destroying history, etc. is far off topic for the purpose of this thread. If you want to start another thread feel free.

 

[necropimp]

shellac won't melt... it can flake off it can also be "melted" using denatured alcohol but heat won't melt it

 

[User Name]

As I said, it only starts an argument. There are those who feel that the shellac is part of the history of the rifle and should not be removed, and there are those who feel it makes the rifle look ugly so it doesn't matter if it's removed.

BTW, The Finn's did nothing to my M91, unlike my M39s, (which are original rifles IMHO) but reassemble it using multiple rifle parts and put an SA stamp on it. Other than the SA stamp that's the same thing the Russian's did with my RC K98k.

Also, where is this X supposed to be on RC's? I don't see one on my receiver. Here is a pic.

 

[Manstein]

not all RC K98's are X'd, mine isn't either

 

[Zoring]

What's all that writing on the barrel though? 90 43 W m? crazy!

 

[necropimp]

mine is also missing the russian X... but it does have the EPed numbers and the serial on the stock (let us not forget the shellac)

 

[|9.SS|Kriechbaum]

Yea the waffenampts on mine (which has an X) are not pinged out

Was Ivan just careless?

 

[necropimp]

I think Ivan was being supervised by Sgt Smirnov on the days all the unpinged rifles went through

 

[LemoN]

oh boys...
was at the range for the first time in my life yesterday
tested my new G98

i thought a horse kicked my shoulder!

but i think i wasnt aiming that bad because all rounds hit between 7 and 10 at 75 meters

gonna go to the range again tomorrow to give my shoulder the next beating

 

[Lt_Kettch]

Pictures of bruises are appreciated

 

[LemoN]

you can get pictures of empty beerbottles if you want

 

[Capt.Marion]

have you ever shot before?

 

[LemoN]

no

i already sayd that it was the first time in my life

well ive got a gas and signalpistol aka Schreckschuss Pistol
wich is a 9mm PAK

 

[bas]

oh boys...
was at the range for the first time in my life yesterday
tested my new G98

i thought a horse kicked my shoulder!

but i think i wasnt aiming that bad because all rounds hit between 7 and 10 at 75 meters

gonna go to the range again tomorrow to give my shoulder the next beating

LOL as long as you had fun

This is why I always introduce first timers through a .22 rifle and then a medium calibre like the .223 or 7.62x39 before we progress to the large bore rifles.

If it helps, I still get brused shoulders.

 

[Capt.Marion]

hold the rifle firmly into your shoulder, so it moves your whole body, instead of slamming into your shoulder

 

[bas]

Good advice Capt. except it doesn't help much when you're shooting prone. And no matter how tight you hold it the energy has to go somewhere and the first place it can go is into your body.

Pretty much the best way to avoid it is through padding, either a recoil pad or a shooting jacket (or both), take some of the edge out of the energy as it travels through your body.

 

[THunter]

What's all that writing on the barrel though? 90 43 W m? crazy!

I love german k98s, mostly because they have so many stamps. You can go back and pretty much figure out some of its history about when and were it was made just by the stamps

that stamping on the barrel is the rifles barrel code. Most k98s have them. If you cant see it, its usually under the woodline. The barrel code usually consists of:

1. Manufactoring company. This was the company which made the barrel, but not necesssarily the steel used in the barrel. The companys logo or assigned code could be used.

2. Production year. Only the last two digits of the year were stamped

3. Steel works. This was the company that produced the steel

so its a given the barrel was made in 1943. The reciever was made in 1942. which means when the barrel and reciever were put together, the factory was using surplus leftover recievers from 1942 in 1943. im also pretty sure the W logo is the logo of the company that made the steel. and the 90 is the company that tooled the barrel.

the rifle is a 2nd variation for berlin-lubecker in 1942. The 2nd variation is the "duv" k98 that was assembled by gustloff (another big k98 maker) on a reciever made by berlin-lubecker. While the reciever is coded "duv" its really a "bcd" rifle and the serrial number is within the "bcd" serrial number range, rather than the "duv" range. The most imporant marking that identifys it as a 2nd variation berlin lubecker is the waffenamt "749" final assembly proof on top of the reciever ring above the makers code, which in thie case is "duv" so to clear it all up, the parts where made by 1 factory and sent to another where the rifle was put together.