• Please make sure you are familiar with the forum rules. You can find them here: https://forums.tripwireinteractive.com/index.php?threads/forum-rules.2334636/

I'll Show You Mine If You'll Show Me Yours (Part Deux)

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Sort by date Sort by votes
#1,201
LukeFF said:
Ugh, not a good day. I don't think I had the gas port adjusted right (thanks to my cheapo utility tool already rendered useless), because every time I pulled the trigger the bolt failed to extract the spent casing and load the next round. I put up with it until, around the 20th round, the charging handle was locked solid and I couldn't get it to move. I pulled off the bolt cover to see if removing the springs would loosen up some of the tension. Bad idea - not only did the bolt not budge, but the rear spring guide flew off somewhere into the wild blue yonder. :rolleyes: I finally did get the bolt open by prying it with a flat-edged piece of metal, but of course my day at the range was done by then.

Suffice it to say I won't be firing the SVT again until I get the new tool from Black River and the new spring guide. At least the 20 rounds l put on target were fairly decent (a couple of them in the 8 and 9 ring).
Click to expand...

What setting did you have your gas regulator at?

Did you completely dissasemble it and clean it before your range trip?

If so then your best friend is a rubber mallet until you can figure out what the problem is.
 
Upvote 0
#1,202
GonzoX said:
What setting did you have your gas regulator at?

Did you completely dissasemble it and clean it before your range trip?

If so then your best friend is a rubber mallet until you can figure out what the problem is.
Click to expand...

The problem is that the gas port wasn't lined up properly with the tick mark on the other part of the rifle. I've read this will prevent the gas from escaping. I had no way of adjusting it because of my utility tool being worn out.

And yes, I did a thorough cleaning and functions check on it before taking it to the range. It's my own fault for thinking the piston system would still work right with a misaligned port.
 
Upvote 0
#1,204
When you tried to use your tool to adjust the regulator, you did first loosen the gas cylinder by untightening it right?

If it has been unscrewed to loosen, you dont even need the tool. You can use a pair of pliers or even your fingers to turn it.

If it does not turn freely after loosing or even removing the the cylinder (with your tool) then there may be a problem since it should be adjustable by hand.

Have you taken the regulator out and looked at it?
 
Upvote 0
#1,206
LemoN said:
u should try to shoot at 100-200 meters
way more fun :cool:
also may more difficult without a scope
Click to expand...

I do shoot at 100 yards (I'm in America ;)), but typically I start out at 50 yards to warm up and get a feel for the rifle before moving the targets further out. It was my plan to do that with the SVT, but alas that did not work out.
 
Upvote 0
#1,207
GonzoX said:
When you tried to use your tool to adjust the regulator, you did first loosen the gas cylinder by untightening it right?

If it has been unscrewed to loosen, you dont even need the tool. You can use a pair of pliers or even your fingers to turn it.

If it does not turn freely after loosing or even removing the the cylinder (with your tool) then there may be a problem since it should be adjustable by hand.

Have you taken the regulator out and looked at it?
Click to expand...

No, I didn't loosen the cylinder first. How do you remove the regulator without damaging it?
 
Upvote 0
#1,208
LukeFF said:
No, I didn't loosen the cylinder first. How do you remove the regulator without damaging it?
Click to expand...

First remove the piston (thin metal double sided cup part) from the rod. Be sure that your bolt is locked all the way back before you try this as you will need room to take the rod out of the piston cup.

Second, you use your tool to unscrew the Cylinder until it detaches from the barrel.

Now the regulator should just fall out or it may need a light tap from the front with a small hammer and punch. It should come right out as it just sits in there flush with nothing holding it in. Most of them can be pushed out with the thumb but some are tight if they have not been cleaned in a while.

Once it is cleaned and reasembled, you should then be able to turn it with your fingers after untightening your cylinder.

Note that on the SVT40 the piston looks like a cylinder and the cylinder looks like a piston. To make a long story short, a piston is defined by it's function and not by it's shape. Trust me on this, I learned the hard way LOL. :rolleyes:

It's a good idea to soak all three gas parts in a cleaner of your choice. Also be sure to clea out all of the gas holes on the regulator as they get stopped up with carbon build up. If there is rust you might have to resort to extra fine steel wool.

Remember, if you use corrosive ammo in your SVT like I do, you have to dissasemble these parts to properly clean them. Running hot water down the barrel helps a bunch as well but don't forget to run a patch down it to dry it before you use chemicals.

Hint, Some Q-tips come in handy here when you try to clean the gas port hole and gas block area. :D

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
#1,215
Sks

Sks

Hahaha, my first large caliber semi-auto:D

Chinese SKS, from what i could tell it's an early production model. #890XXX /5

Stock kinda matches my m38, you can see the mount for my rail system

sks017hv1.jpg


skstilehb1.jpg



I like the setup a lot, you can still use irons too.

$350 for it at a buddy's bait&tackle shop. Around $411 after the damn lock you have to buy in CA and fees.:mad:

Still love it though. decent accuracy too.



Not much like gun oil on the kitchen counter!
 
Upvote 0
#1,217
yep excellent grade yugos are a bit under $200 $160 at aim for VG condition

starting to work on adding quality bore photos to my collection page

and where else to start but with the most recent addition which will probably clean up better after i shoot it

1945_Izhevsk_M44_lam.jpg


1945 Izhevsk M44

in case youre wondering... smallest aperture size, light above rifle with a piece of paper in the reciever to reflect the light, and a tripod... then using multiple focal lengths to take a series of photos which are then compiled in photoshop (top layer being closest and just select blurry parts of bore and cut from each layer)
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
#1,218
JoshuaC said:
It's been a while since I've checked prices but I'm pretty sure you can get excellent quality SKS's for about $200. Does Kali have a gun tax or something?
Click to expand...

Not quite.

If the retail price of a firearm in a gunshop is $350, it is that plus the $25 DROS fee to check with the Department of Justice as to whether or not the buyer is ineligible to buy the gun. That brings the total to $375. If the buyer does not have a safe (and thus does not have a Safe Affidavit outlining the make/model/type of the safe), he has to purchase something like a $5 lock. That's $380.

If this SKS was transferred from another gunshop to this one (or if he bought it off of gunbroker.com and it was shipped to the shop), he has to pay a transfer fee which is entirely up to the gunshop. If it was a private party transfer, that is the seller of the rifle and the buyer go into the gunshop at the same time to transfer, there is a MAXIMUM amount allowed of $35.

However, in this instance that would be unecessary because any rifle made during 1957 or earlier can be bought face-to-face from one individual to another without going through a gunshop with no waiting time; this is usually called "cash and carry". Get a Curio and Relics license; $30 for three years and you can get all of the WWII-Cold War goodies you want shipped straight to your door.

As far as getting a decent SKS for $200, you can. However in California you can't get the popular Yugoslavian 59/66 with the integrated grenade launcher because that's "too scary". The launcher needs to be sleeved or chopped off before it can even get into the state, which sucks because these are the cheapest SKS model out there. Norinco is another option, as is a Russian one. $350 for a Russian SKS is not bad at all.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply
Jump to latest Follow Reply
Community News
Forums
Merch
Menu