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My Mosin Pictures

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#21
Lol, man, pulling that striker back manually is hard as hell! I don't even engage the "safety" on my rifle because of how hard it is to pull that striker back to engage and disengage.

People who don't know; the Mosin's safety is engaged by pulling the striker back and twisting counter clockwise. It's a pretty stiff spring to fight with. My safety is unloading it and taking the bolt out.
 
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#25
It's fairly common for people to replace their striker springs with (slightly) lighter ones. It's almost standard practice for people with M48s (and other intermediate-length action Mausers), because too often the bolts were outfitted with striker springs for full-length actions, resulting in excessive force behind the striker.

Which means that light strikes and hard primers are nonexistent, but safeties get to be real bitchy and bolt lift sucks.
 
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#26
[FERGIE] said:
YBBS sage how would u say the mosin in the game compares with your mosin in real life i would be really interested to know. And another question, as im from the Uk i cant buy guns like u guys in America, so where did u get it and how much. Im not thinking of importing one to the UK, just be interesting to know. Thanks
Click to expand...

Well, I think I talked a bit about the purchase of my rifle earlier in the thread, so I'll leave that for now.

How does it stack up to the in-game 91/30? I'd say they did a good job of simulating the 91/30. The only thing is that they made it WAY too easy to aim the rifle with the bayonet on, mainly standing. The rifle became so front-heavy when I put it on that I doubt I could have safely fired it (I put the bayonet on with the rifle unloaded with the bolt removed in my living room.) I actually had to hold the butt end of the rifle DOWN, and my left arm was getting tired pretty rapidly. (For the record, I'm not a weak guy, I'm a mechanic and my arms see some strenuous use daily.)

I'm still learning the rifle a bit, and it's been a few years since I went out shooting (kinda fell out of it after the move to CA..), so accuracy-wise... I'll get back to you on that, though it seems to be capable of some very accurate fire.

I'm going back to the range this weekend, and I should feel a lot more "connected" to this rifle then.
 
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#28
Sage, perhaps you just told us the problem with your bayonet experience - if you fixed the bayonet while the rifle's bolt was removed, you have unbalanced the rifle. Put the bolt in, and then fix the bayonet - you might find that the rifle balances much better. Also, the loaded rifle will weigh more on the butt end, so that would help balance too. In any case, the mere weight of the bolt should more than offset the weight of the bayonet.
 
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#29
I don't think so for a couple of reasons:

-The balance doesn't feel a whole lot different with the bolt out or in.
- Center of gravity vs where stuff is located: The bolt (and magazine, for ammo weight) is fairly close to my left hand, I'd guess about 6 inches. The bayonet, on the other hand, is at the other end of the barrel, about, what, 2 feet from my left hand (which is at about the center of gravity for my rifle.)

It just felt really, horribly front-heavy to me. And I (usually) like slightly front-heavy.
 
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#30
Nice!

I just picked up an M39 this weekend. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. My numbers all match up too, and my action is beautiful and smooth. Of course I also bought an Arisaka Type 99 this weekend. It is a design similar to the mauser and it is a real pain. Looks nice though.

I tried posting a pic, but I need to resize it first.
 
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#33
kempe said:
if your finding the bolt is hard to open or sticky after firing a shot it often means that your overloading your cartidges...
Click to expand...
Not true when it comes to Mosins, the laquered-case-sticky-bolt-problem is well known in collector circles.

It's very easy to fix though, you don't even need to use the drill method. Just fire off 10 rounds or so then give the chamber a thorough cleaning while the goo is still hot. I used the last third of a three piece cleaning rod and a small brass brush plus patches and solvent, kept going untill the chamber returned clean patches. Haven't had the problem since.

Less risk than using a drill in your firearm and much more fun too :D
 
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#36
The bolt seems a little more free after the first couple of range trips. It was still seeping cosmoline after the second trip, so I took the bolt apart, cleaned it, then gave it a light coat of Rem Oil. Seems a ton better now.

I'm not shooting laquered steel cases. Still shooting Albanian ammo, which is brass-cased. I've had about 1%-2% of them that had folds on the necks of the cases, the bolt won't close on these, and it's VERY unwise to try forcing it closed. I've found that if the bolt just stops as I'm pushing it forward, it's a fold case, and I'll just pull the bolt back, then close, open, close and fire the next good round. At about $.10/round, what's one or two matter, huh? :p

I've picked up a couple of tips for using stripper clips (god, it's fun.) I use the clips that are steel with no cut-out areas on them. These in particular: http://www.tickbitesupply.com/mos.html

I load them so the rims overlap all in the same direction. The bottom one is overlapped by the next one up that's overlapped by the next and so on. The bottom round winds up pointing up if you hold the clip at a 90 degree angle to the ground, and the top round will point parallel to the ground, or 90 degrees to the clip. I adjusted the clips so that if I give them a shake, the rounds will jiggle up and down, but not so loose they fall out on their own. If the clips are too tight, the rounds don't jiggle and pushing them into the rifle is a pain in the ass. I adjusted them simply by pulling them open farther, or pushing them closed a little at a time.

For the clip-loading technique itself, my best results have looked almost exactly like the animation from RO:O, so kudos there.
 
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#38
I had to dig this up for some new pictures.

Before I go further, a word to the history buffs, collectors, purists, whatevers: Yeah, I know this isn't the "correct" finish for a Soviet 91/30. I like the way this looks, and it's going to be a lot more durable than shellac. If a re-refinished rifle bugs you.. look no further. If you want to see a different-looking 91/30 (I think it's tasteful, more so than shiny shellac, at any rate), read on.

Besides, this is a '42 Ishevsk... One of 2.8 million or so. Not exactly rare, so :p to any haters.

Russkie11 said:
My 91/30 looks just like that, literally! Awesome...
Click to expand...

Heh, not anymore. I ran into a problem. The shellac was melting off my rifle near the reciever. It actually ruined a shirt that I wore by carrying the rifle slung while it was hot at the TacRifle shoot last week. So after some soul-searching, I decided that since my rifle's not destined for wall-hanging any time soon, and I plan on hunting with it eventually, shellac isn't the finish for me... I took the rifle apart and stripped the stock and handguard.

After a lot of elbow grease and about 4 applications of furniture stripper, this is what I had:

17511545315.jpg


I left the ferrules on the handguard to avoid breaking stuff, and left the sling eustacian in to avoid gouging my stock.

Then I rubbed in some Formby's low-gloss tung oil:

17514142882.jpg


Re-assembled:

17516040245.jpg


Compared to before...:

mosin8ee.jpg


Lyudmila looks classy. :D

More images here:

http://ybbs.shrapnet.com/forums/index.php?topic=1075.0

And mind-numbing boredom concerning how I did it here:

http://xanga.com/mikesage
 
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