What car do you drive?
- Thread starter RussianGuy89
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Yes but this is bad dirty, it's the snow melting chemicals. They use salt and a bunch of other great stuffs which makes a great paint eating concoction.
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Don't think so Dingbat, not unless you're pushin' 270hp.
And straightlines are bullocks (dodging swear filter here) anyway. The car shines in the twisties. AWD ftw! FWD ftl!
The 3's supposed to be a good car. Gimme a ring when you're pushing 50+ hp from stock and can throw it around corners like a frisbee.
Actually I've yet to get this thing down to the dragstrip since I've gone stage 2.
Yeah, you're right, your car's still got the edge. But the speed3 packs 263hp so it's not as big an edge as you might think.
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except that they are designed and manufactured in either Canada or Kentucky/Tennessee. I've got an '04 Corolla...made in Canada from parts made in Canada or the US. Its kinda like buying a Volkswagon...many sold in the states are made in Mexico.
@ rattus
Until the fall of '03 I drove a '98 Corolla until one fateful afternoon a dude in a Ford E350
I loved that car.
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Newer cars are immune, for the most part, since they use galvanized sheet metal now.
The bad stuff is the potassium chloride, AKA road salt. Ironically, that's the same thing that corrosive rifle primers produce that makes them corrosive.
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![[-project.rattus-]](/data/avatars/s/0/161.jpg?1568638684){kind=avatar}
Na, it wasn't airborne until it touched my right hand side light.
That damage is not worth mentioning though...
Well, today, a mate of mine who is Toyota mechanic (and who actually rebuild and customized that very car a little two years ago) is going to take a look at it and decides if he's able to fix it privately, because technically, it is totaled.
But even if he deems it beyond his abilites, he's going to rebuy it of me as everything else besides the roof, windshield and light is in a very good shape and can be reused as second hand spare parts.
And after having driven VWs, Opels (Vauxhalls for you non euros and brits) and three generations of Citroens (driving my mums new C3 at the moment, as I need a car for my job), I will definately go for another Toyota.
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Is this a challenge? Quick, where's the nearest schoolzone?
Actually, reading up a bit on the MS3 it looks like a really good car. Only thing the WRX may have on it is AWD. Mazda's got some really nice stuff out right now, and their service under warranty is phenominally good. That's a place where Subaru has a LOT to learn. Subie's really gotta ditch those RE92s they throw on the cars. You create a performance car and put just about the worst tires you can put on it. I'm glad I didn't have to deal with that (my car had better tires on it when I bought it, but even those have long since changed).
I haven't driven one of the MS3s, but I'd be curious to try one out for comparison (then again, I'm pretty stubborn with my taste). Just hope it doesn't grow the reputation as being the new SRT-4.
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nissan pickup kingcab
2001
black
2.5 TDI
130.000 km
BOUGHT ON EBAY 2 years ago relatively cheap, and is in perfect condition.
and it runs partly on canola oil!!
4 lights on roof!
aluminum rims
like this one: but slightly bigger tires and turbo cooler intake on front hood!
it doesnt hold the road, so i luuuuuvvve it
2001
black
2.5 TDI
130.000 km
BOUGHT ON EBAY 2 years ago relatively cheap, and is in perfect condition.
and it runs partly on canola oil!!
4 lights on roof!
aluminum rims
like this one: but slightly bigger tires and turbo cooler intake on front hood!
it doesnt hold the road, so i luuuuuvvve it
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Actually it was built in Japan using 100% japanese parts. I work for Toyota I know these things.
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As for the WRX vs Mazda 3 debate, there's several things about my 2002 WRX that I don't like:
)
I haven't driven the Mazda 3, but I read a Road and Track (or was it Car and Driver?) article that compared the two, and basically it came out as a tie. I believe they were comparing it to the newer WRX that has 270 HP. Mine only has 220 or so.
- Turbo lag. Supposedly the Turbos are electronically limited at under 3000 rpm. Frankly, it doesn't seem to matter. Off the line my car is a dog. Moreso than any other turbo I've ever driven.
- Cornering. I didn't spend the extra bajillion dollars on the anti-swaybar kit, and when you turn a corner too quickly, the car leans excessively.
- Fuel leak: I thought this was just me, but apparently someone called into "car talk" (that NPR radio show) with the exact same problem. When it's cold, there is a small amount of fuel leaking somewhere in the engine compartment that causes massive fumes. I haven't bothered to get it fixed because the dealership wanted a stupid amount of cash to fix this, and I can simply use recirculated air to avoid the fumes. Someday, my car's going to turn into a fireball, but until then, I'll live with it.
)I haven't driven the Mazda 3, but I read a Road and Track (or was it Car and Driver?) article that compared the two, and basically it came out as a tie. I believe they were comparing it to the newer WRX that has 270 HP. Mine only has 220 or so.
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1998 Audi A4 2.8 litre Quattro, sport version.
Great car, especially in the winter. Goes like a rocket and better traction than any 4WD out there.
Great car, especially in the winter. Goes like a rocket and better traction than any 4WD out there.
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Yup, your WRX complaints echoed mine. I rarely get that fuel smell, and when I do it's not particularly strong, but I live in socal so it doesn't often get that cold. Looking through my records it looks like the original owner took it in for that problem, but I don't see anything that specifically says whether or not it was fixed. Like I said I rarely get it, and then it's not particularly strong.
It's a complaint that's seen a lot of research in the WRX community. I'd say though, my BIGGEST complain, is the friggin clutch shudder. There was a TSB about that, and the original owner of my car took it in to get that fixed, but the dealer of course says they "can't replicate the problem." That's a bunch of BS, considering they had a service bulletin describing it, and an outlined fix. I'll be replacing the clutch soon myself.....not looking forward to it.
With regards to the leaning in cornering, boy did I notice that when I got the car. Upgrading the anti-swaybars isn't that big of a deal. It's the 2nd thing I did after upgrading the steering rack bushings to get rid of the memory steer. I upgrade the rear swaybar mounts, rear endlinks, and both front and rear bars to 24mm adjustables for less than $500. What a difference it made! Of course, wider wheels and better tires will also help tremendously with cornering grip, and a good spring/strut combo will do wonders to reduce body roll even more.
With regards to the turbo lag, look into a Cobb Accessport. Stage 1 is just an ECU reflash, helped a bit with the low end torque, brought the turbo spool a little lower in the RPM range, smoothed out the power curve. Running stage 2 is just great, but that requires a bit more work, though relatively simple. You should be able to find a used accessport for around $400 or so. Totally worth it, imo. But personally, if you're like me, you make it turn better first, then you make it go better.
It's a complaint that's seen a lot of research in the WRX community. I'd say though, my BIGGEST complain, is the friggin clutch shudder. There was a TSB about that, and the original owner of my car took it in to get that fixed, but the dealer of course says they "can't replicate the problem." That's a bunch of BS, considering they had a service bulletin describing it, and an outlined fix. I'll be replacing the clutch soon myself.....not looking forward to it.
With regards to the leaning in cornering, boy did I notice that when I got the car. Upgrading the anti-swaybars isn't that big of a deal. It's the 2nd thing I did after upgrading the steering rack bushings to get rid of the memory steer. I upgrade the rear swaybar mounts, rear endlinks, and both front and rear bars to 24mm adjustables for less than $500. What a difference it made! Of course, wider wheels and better tires will also help tremendously with cornering grip, and a good spring/strut combo will do wonders to reduce body roll even more.
With regards to the turbo lag, look into a Cobb Accessport. Stage 1 is just an ECU reflash, helped a bit with the low end torque, brought the turbo spool a little lower in the RPM range, smoothed out the power curve. Running stage 2 is just great, but that requires a bit more work, though relatively simple. You should be able to find a used accessport for around $400 or so. Totally worth it, imo. But personally, if you're like me, you make it turn better first, then you make it go better.
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Interesting. My wife's Subaru Outback has the exact same problem. Happens mostly in the cold. One time it was so bad I got a headache and had to drive home with the windows down in -8 C.
I've had it "fixed" a couple of times but it recurs. I can't remember exactly what the mechanic said the cause was, because I sold the vehicle last year.
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Actually it was built in Japan using 100% japanese parts. I work for Toyota I know these things.
Then why does it say *Made in Canada* on mine?
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